NOTICE OF COPYRIGHT

Regular ski waxes are made from long chains of carbon atoms (like a string of beads). Each carbon atom also has a couple of hydrogen atoms attached, and as such, these compounds are called hydrocarbons. There are three different types of waxes which are blended together to make regular ski waxes: paraffins, microcrystalline, and synthetic waxes.

Paraffins are softer candle-like waxes made up of linear strings of 20 to 35 carbon atoms. Paraffins provide low friction coefficients, meaning that they slide very well across the snow crystals. However, paraffin waxes tend to break under pressure.

Microcrystalline waxes are branched hydrocarbons containing 25 to 50 carbon atoms. They have a higher coefficient of friction than paraffins but are more elastic ("plastic") and resilient under pressure. Both paraffin and microcrystalline waxes are derived from petroleum and are the major components of ski waxes.

Waxes formulated for warm snow conditions are blends of softer paraffins and microcrystalline waxes. Soft waxes have a lower coefficient of friction, easily sliding across rounded snow crystals and repelling water more effectively than hard waxes. Colder snow, especially when freshly fallen, has sharp pointed crystals which tend to penetrate softer waxes causing the skis to stick to the snow. Waxes designed for colder snow contain paraffins and microcrystalline waxes with longer chains of carbon atoms and are thus harder and more resistant to penetration by snow crystals.

Synthetic waxes are the third type of hydrocarbons used in the production of ski waxes. They are composed of slightly branched chains of 50 or more carbon atoms, are very hard and brittle and are used as hardeners for paraffin waxes. Start Green is the perfect example of a wax that contains a lot of synthetic wax. Waxes for very cold snow protects the ski bases by flaking away after being penetrated by the snow.

Fluorocarbon waxes started to be developed for skis waxes in the 1980's. Fluorocarbons differ from hydrocarbons in that fluorine atoms have replaced the hydrogen on the carbon atoms. Fluorine, containing a dense layer of electrons around its nucleus, is the most electro-negative of all atoms. The oxygen atom of a water molecule also has an electron dense negatively charged portion around its nucleus. Fluorocarbon waxes work because the negatively charged fluorine atoms and negatively charged oxygen portion of the water molecule repel each other (like charges repel, such as with the similar poles of two magnets). It is important to remember that fluorocarbons repel liquid water. Colder snow has less "free moisture" (liquid water around the ice crystals), while warm snow has a lot of free moisture. Thus, fluorocarbon waxes work best in warmer moist snows and in colder snows only when the humidity is high (above 60-70%).

The first fluorocarbon used in ski waxes, as an additive, was Teflon, (also known as PTFE, or polytetrafluoroethylene). In addition to its water repellent properties, PTFE is an excellent solid lubricant having one of the lowest coefficients of friction known. Unfortunately, PTFE lacks mechanical strength and does not hold up well to colder, aggressive snow. Also, since PTFE contains over 500 polymerized carbon atoms, it has a melting point much higher than polyethylene ski bases and cannot be used as a traditional ski wax to be melted into the pores of a ski base. As such, PTFE has been mostly limited to use in surface coat waxes, such as Maxiglide, and a few race waxes and additives (like Ski-Go 280) which again mostly stay on the surface of the ski.

In the late 80's, ski wax companies started to use fluorocarbon technology originally developed for painting the bottoms of boats and ships. Swix's Cera-F (properly pronounced "ché - ra", with a "ch" like in cheese and the "e" like a long "a" in English), was the first such commercially available ski-wax. Technically, these waxes are known as perfluorocarbons, with "per" meaning that all of the hydrogen atoms on the carbon chain have been replaced with fluorine atoms. These molecules contain about 20 carbons atoms, and melt at a low enough temperature that they could be ironed onto the ski without melting the base.

Fluorocarbon waxes have the advantages of having a very high degree of water repellency plus a very low friction coefficient. In addition, they repel dirt particles (which tend to be negatively charged) and resist oil (from grooming machines) and waxy pollen from trees. As such, fluorocarbon waxes are excellent for Spring, when snow tends to be both wet and dirty.

Fluorocarbon waxes, however, have several drawbacks. First of all, their manufacturing process (by electro fluorination) is complex and very costly. There are only a couple manufacturing plants (of the raw materials) and processing laboratories in the entire world. Ski wax companies do not manufacture their own fluorocarbon wax, but rather buy these products from the same processing labs.

Just like paraffins and PTFE, fluorocarbon waxes also lack mechanical strength and are thus easily penetrated by cold snow crystals. As such, fluorocarbon waxes tend to "stick" in temperatures below 21°F, especially if the humidity is low or the snow is dry. In the last several years, the processing labs have developed different fluorocarbon wax structures, often combined with other atoms, to increase the mechanical strength and temperature ranges. For example, STAR now has three different fluorocarbons: F1 (powder or solid) for new warmer snow, F2 (powder or solid) for older (corned) warmer snow, and F3 (powder only) for colder humid conditions, plus their new "Dice" pure fluorocarbon rub-on solids, again in three temperature ranges. That's a total of 8 different pure fluorocarbon waxes from just one wax company!

When fluorocarbon waxes were first introduced, the application method had several limitations. Since pure fluorocarbon do not like to mix with hydrocarbon waxes, the wax was either applied by rubbing it into the ski base or applied with a very hot iron. The rub-on "cold method" worked well for short distance races (like alpine), but since the fluorocarbon wax did not bind with the underlayer of hydrocarbon wax, it wore off very fast. The hot iron method, designed to sear a layer into the top pores of the ski base, causes noxious fumes. The "sparkles" that appear behind the hot iron is the fluorocarbon wax being sublimated - literally going from solid to vapor state. Studies have shown that breathing wax vapors can cause short term loss of lung function of 10 to 25%. (No long term studies have been conducted.) The hot iron application method also plugs the pores of the ski base, which must be peeled before it will accept other waxes. For the health of both lungs and skis, the hot iron method of application should be avoided.
Around 1990, a new type of hybrid wax was developed by chemically joining short fluorocarbon molecules to paraffin waxes. This allowed the wax manufactures to develop blends of traditional waxes with all the benefits of fluorocarbon waxes. These hybrids are referred to as fluorinated waxes, and usually come in block form and are applied (ironed) in the same manner as regular hydrocarbon waxes.

Fluorinated waxes have lower coefficients of friction and repel water better than hydrocarbon waxes. However, the wax must contain at least 3% fluorinated paraffin to show any benefit, and 10-15% for optimum results. Some "low concentrate" waxes on the market contain less than 1% - the fluoro benefit of these waxes is simply marketing fantasy. Price is not always a reflection of fluoro content as some brands simply charge more. The terms low, medium or high should be used only to compare fluoro content between different models of wax in the same brand. One company's low fluor line may actually contain more fluor than another company's mid-fluor line, and cost less! Some companies have (and continue to) put PTFE additive in their waxes and imply that it's really a fluorinated hybrid. Unfortunately, there is way too much marketing hype in the wax industry.

Always keep in mind that, even in the most highly fluorinated bar of wax, there is 85% or more of paraffins, microcrystalline and synthetic hydrocarbon waxes, plus other additives. Furthermore, the temperature and snow conditions may dictate that a higher fluorinated wax is NOT the best choice. A good rule for selecting a fluorinated glide wax is to err on the cold (harder wax) side. The hardness can accomodate any abrasiveness in the snow, and the fluoro content will handle any moisture, even if the snow warms up and has more moisture. If on the cusp between two waxes, choose the colder wax.

Application of fluorinated waxes is by melting them into the base with an iron. There are no fumes as associated with ironing pure fluorocarbons. Fluorinated waxes melt in like regular waxes. Apply a thin layer and melt in briefly. If the major component is softer paraffin, then let the wax cool to room temperature before scraping and brushing off the excess. If the major component of the fluorinated wax is harder microcrystalline or synthetic waxes, then scrape and brush the ski base when the wax is still warm. If the wax chips off, that means it should have been scraped warm. Just re-heat briefly, scrape and brush.

After the skis have cooled, use a roto brush with light pressure to brush out any remaining wax from the structure of the base and polish it to a nice shine. Harder waxes polish more than softer waxes. The skis should have no wax on the surface, but feel waxy (in the base) when rubbed with a thumb.

If a pure fluorocarbon is to be applied as a final coat, always use a high fluoro content fluorinated wax first. It is best to start with a coat of pure hydrocarbon soft wax. This cleans the base and gets the pores of the base saturated with hydrocarbon wax. Scrape and brush warm. Next, use the high fluoro content fluorinated wax, preferably two coats. Since hydrocarbon and fluorocarbons do not mix, the hydrocarbon end of these hybrid wax molecules will tend to be aligned into the pores of the base, while the fluorocarbon ends will be pointed up to the surface. When the pure fluorocarbon is applied, it will stick to these fluorocarbon ends just under the surface.

e e e e e

Here are some recommendations based on using and selling various fluorinated waxes over the past 10 years at Sierra Nordic:

STAR Wax Company (Asiago, Italy) makes the most complete and diverse line of glide waxes available: 4 basic lines, plus base waxes, top waxes, cold weather additives, iron in and rub on pure fluorocarbon waxes, irons, tools, guides, and excellent instructions in the boxes of their better waxes. The Ultra Tech waxes, their low-fluor line, contains 5 time more fluoro content than other brands yet is less expensive and yields wondereful glide in most snow conditions. There are only 3 waxes in this line (which can be blended), which makes glide waxing simple.

Star's Tekno line contains 5 excellent glide waxes, two of which are very unique: TF10 is the best wax we have ever found for dirty Spring snow conditions. The next colder wax, TF12 is formulated for moist snow but lower humidity and crosses the 0°C point well. The base waxes from Star, MAP Black and MAP 200, are the best base waxes on the market. Their line of DICE rub-on pure fluorocarbon waxes have proven superior to all other products. Finally, they have brought back their Eclipse line of glide waxes (because of overwhelming World Cup demand based on the wax's durability in longer races).

RODE is the other (and older) wax company in Asiago. They have always been known for their exceptional line of kick waxes. After the death of founder Rizzieri ("Rode") Rodeghiero several years ago, his son Giuliano took the helm and has developed two new lines of incredible glide waxes. The FS (fluorinated skate) have constantly tested as fast or faster than other brand's best waxes, yet cost about half as much. New this year is the super fluoro content K72 line for higher humidity and wet snow conditions. e