Waxing tools: How to use them. In order
of general use and specific tasks (www.rideandglide.org
12/20/07)
Be sure to check out
Waxing Steps. A step by
step list of how to wax using these tools and processes
- Wax bench
- Any of a number of methods to hold a ski stationary while waxing
- Works a lot better than suspending ski between two chairs and holding
with one hand
- Wooden forms in the shape of a ski (You can make one out of a 2x6)
- Tip and tail supports with center clip that connect to bindings
- Just about required for ironing, scraping, brushing, and
buffing. Very difficult without one
- Iron
- Used to melt and spread glidewax on skis.
- Old clothes irons are not as good as a real wax iron, but if it's all
you have
- Be careful, if the wax is smoking the iron is too hot
- Also used to smooth out kick wax for better adhesion
- Groove tool
- Used for removing glide wax from the groove(s) on the ski bottom
- Most scrapers have a rounded edge that can do this. This works
better
- Plastic Scraper
- Used to remove the bulk of the cooled glide wax from the base
- Keep them sharp with a bastard file or sand paper at 90 degrees on the
bench
- Metal Scraper
- An alternative to stone grinding. Exposes fresh base material
- Best left to an expert
- Brass/copper brush
- First brush for initial wax removal of
med(red/blue) and hard(green/white) waxes. Tip to tail only. 3-4
passes only
- Can be clogged by soft (yellow/base) waxes, not needed
- Also used for initial cleaning and structure opening before waxing
- Stiff nylon brush
- General wax removal. Second brush
after brass/copper. First brush for
soft(yellow/base) waxes or if you don't have brass/copper
- Can be scrubbed back and forth. No limit on passes
- Also final brush for "work
hardening" of the base for med and cold conditions
- Horsehair brush
- Final wax removal. Third brush
after Brass/copper and Nylon. Tip to tail only 4-5 passes
should be enough
- May clog on soft waxes, be careful
- Also used for brushing up/removal of pure flouro wax (keep a separate
one for pure fluoros)
- Soft nylon brush
- Used for final polish of pure fluoros. Use after surface removal
with horsehair
- Natural bristle paint brush (2 inch)
- Used to clean wax dust and scrapings off base of ski. Natural bristle
seems to alleviate the static cling of the dust. ($1.00 at Menards)
- Vegetable brush
- Use in your right hand to scrape the wax dust off the bottom of the brass
or horsehair brush. Thus cleaning it for the next pass ($1.00) at
grocery store)
- Use to judge how much wax is being removed on each pass with the brush.
Thus when you can stop.
- Fibertex (scotchbrite)
- White : Non abrasive, use for final polish
especially on cold waxes scrub back and forth. Place on nylon
brush to hold flat
- Blue : Mild abrasive, use for removing hairs from the base after metal
scraping also for wax removal if you don't have a brush
- Green/gray : Aggressive, use to clean up rock ski bases after
rock dings. Follow with blue and then white
- Tip to tail only for blue, green, or gray
- RotoBrush
- Riller
- Used to add structure to your ski bases for water management in wet
conditions
- Many times added on top of stone ground base. Or by it self if
you don't have a ground in structure
- Base skiver
- A razor blade, held at 90 degrees to the base, used to cut off fine
hairs on new bases before base prep
- Use light pressure, 2 passes tip to tail
- Waxing cork
- Used for spreading kick wax in the kick zone on classic skis
- Thermo pad
- Used for buffing in pure fluoro waxes (keep a separate one for pure
fluoros)
- Also used with FastWax Pastewaxes to get them to bond to the ski
base. Generates heat. Scrub vigorously
- Sand paper
- Used for roughing up the kick zone before applying kick wax. Use
150 grit paper on a clean kick zone
- Wax remover
- Used to remove kick wax from classic skis. Don't
use on glide zones of classic or skate skis
- Commercial citrus remover work well. Mineral spirits can be
used.
How to do specific tasks